Bill of Materials
4--26" metal roofing 48" long
4--26" metal roofing 42" long
2--10' metal corner trim roofing pieces
1--3x4 foot 1x1 welded wire
25 feet 1/2 by 1/2 welded screen
window material
paint
6-concrete corner blocks
11--8' 2x4s
1 sheet 3/4 T&G OSB
7 sheets 7/16 OSB
25--8' 1x4 utility
1--lb 2" sheet rock screws
5--lbs 1 1/4" sheet rock screws
5--pair assorted hinges
1--metal door handle
1--screen door lock set
4--26" metal roofing 42" long
2--10' metal corner trim roofing pieces
1--3x4 foot 1x1 welded wire
25 feet 1/2 by 1/2 welded screen
window material
paint
6-concrete corner blocks
11--8' 2x4s
1 sheet 3/4 T&G OSB
7 sheets 7/16 OSB
25--8' 1x4 utility
1--lb 2" sheet rock screws
5--lbs 1 1/4" sheet rock screws
5--pair assorted hinges
1--metal door handle
1--screen door lock set
Construction Steps & Drawings
Build your floor joists using 2X4s on 24" centers, using 16 penny framing nails or 4" sheet rock screws. Make your floor a full 8 foot long but only 46" wide, other wise the finished loft will exceed 48" and might not fit into the back of a pick up. Attach your floor, once again 46" by 96". I use 3/4 OSB tong and groove sub flooring but 3/4 plywood can also be used. Use 2" sheet rock screws every 6" or you can use flooring nails but just make sure they are sunk below the flooring so your scraper will not catch on them.
IMPORTANT
Use the Concrete pier blocks with the metal anchors so you can bolt
the loft to the concrete blocks.
Also, I would recommend using 6 blocks instead of 4.
There has been two lofts that I know of blown over in hurricanes or tornadoes.
Step
Two
As per the drawing below lay two
sheets of 7/16th OSB on the ground and lay out the ends of the loft for
cutting. The two triangle pieces from the top of the sides can be
discarded as they are scrap. You need to cut two end pieces and two
aviary side pieces. The two aviary side pieces can be cut from one sheet
of OSB so you will need a total of three pieces of 7/16th OSB for this
step. Next take two more pieces of 7/16th OSB and cut them 82"
long. leave them a full 48" wide. These two pieces will be for
the back of the loft. You are going to need one more additional piece of
7/16th OSB for the front of the loft for a total of 6 sheets of 7/16th OSB.Now is a good time to cut you door out. Decide which end you want your door and cut it out as below. Do not cut it completely out as you still need it attached to add strength to the end when you attach it to the floor. Once this end is attached to the floor and back you can install your hinges and finish cutting out the door.
Step Three
Lay the front, ends, and back
pieces on the ground as shown.
I like to start with the two
back pieces first, then the two ends, and then the front. The best thing
to do is to hold off on the front for a while until you finish off the back
corners and cut your door. Also, DO NOT screw or nail the bottom of the
door permanently. You can put a few screws in to help hold the end but
these screws will need to come out later.
This drawing shows how to
attach the ends and sides to the floor joist's. Make sure the pieces are
square and level and even with the bottom of the floor joists. Use
2" sheet rock screws or flooring nails about every 6".
Step
Four
In this step we will screw
the two back pieces of OSB together, attach the two back corners, and add
some trim. I use 1X4 fir utility I get for a dollar each. But you
can use any kind of 1X4 material. Before you start this step go out and
buy 5 lbs of 1-1/4" x 6 sheet rock screws as we will be using them for
almost every thing to come. Be careful when screwing in the screws, if
you go to deep with them they will penetrate the back side of the boards.
Look at the left drawing below. Clamp a 1X4 (A) along the top edge (but
down about 1/4 inch from the edge) of the two back pieces of OSB and from the
inside of the loft screw the OSB to the 1X4. I use 6" spacing for
these screws. Next from the outside of the loft screw one of the 78"
1X4s (B) up the center of the back wall dividing the two pieces of OSB evenly.
Just attach this using only a couple of screws. Now go inside and screw
the two edges of the OSB to the 1X4 using one row of screws in each piece on
6" spacing. We will come back to the back pieces later. Now
look at the right drawing and lets work on the ends.Now your going to attach the two last pieces if 1X4 trim (C) to the two back corners like this.
Use your screws from the inside
and some 2" finishing nails from the out side going through piece C into
piece E. Do the same to the other side. You now have your two back
corners done. They should be nice and solid and hopefully straight.
Step
Five
Well by now we're all proficient carpenters, Right? The next steps will
become a little more tricky. I hope I can explain them well enough to
follow.
OK, go ahead and attach the
front piece of 7/16th OSB to the floor, just like you did the back and
ends. Now get your self a couple of 2X2s, or rip a 2X4 in half. You
are going to use them to connect the front to the two ends FROM THE
INSIDE! This is different. Cut both of them 74" long.
Stand one up in the inside of one corner and screw the end to the front into
the 2X2 FROM THE OUTSIDE. Like this.
Go ahead and screw the end OSB
all the up to the 2X2 making sure to keep it straight.
Now, take an 8 foot 2X4 and rip
a 45 degree edge off of it, like this, the full length of the 2x4.
Now attach the 2X4 from top
front corner to top front corner with the flat side of the 2X4 facing out, use
some longer screws, I use 3" sheet rock screws, three in each end.
Like this.
OK, now you have all four sides
firmly attached to each other. Go ahead and install four hinges to the
door and then finish cutting it out. Remove the temporary screws from the
bottom and your door should now be working. Cut three pieces of 1X4 to
attach around the out side of the door for trim. Start with the hinge
side piece first. But this piece tight against and over the hinges.
Screw all the pieces of 1X4 trim to the OSB once again from the inside.
Allow the top 1X4 and the 1X4 opposite the hinge side to extend 1/2" beyond
the door. This makes for a door stop and covers the saw cut when the door
is finished. Like this.
Step Six
Now we're going to finish the
front. Take a new sheet of 7/16th OSB and rip a 6" slice off it, do
this again, so you have two pieces 6 X 96 inches. From the outside, screw
one of the pieces on to the front at the top along the roof line. Screw
the OSB into the 2X4 once again about every 6".
Now measure the distance
between the front full sheet at the bottom to the 6" strip you just
installed at the top. This should be about 28". Cut three
pieces of OSB 6X28 inches, or what your measurement was. Attach one to
the left side of the loft by screwing into the 2X2, and one to the right
side. You now have a big picture window, like this.
Now take a 1X4 and cut it
81" long. Mark the center of your loft on the outside top and bottom
and install this 1X4 centered on the outside running up and down. This
piece is 1 inch shorter than the front to allow room for roofing so when you
install it place it even with the bottom of the loft. Now take your third
piece of 6X28" OSB and install it centered on the inside of the 1X4 you
just installed. Your big picture window just became two windows.
Like this.
Cover your vents with 1/2 by
1/2 screen. This will keep mice out. OK, here's a neat trick.
Cut a couple of pieces of 7/16th OSB some what bigger than your vents. In
my case that would be 10 by 44 inches. Attach these vent doors with
hinges from the top so you can open or close them as much as you want. I
use a rope from the vent door up to the front of the aviary to open and close
these doors. Now for a Young Bird loft you can pinch the doors down when
you darken the loft if your raising your YBs on the darkening system. For
a widowhood loft maintaining a stable temperature is important so you can open
the vent doors durning the day and close them at night. How bout
that? Pretty neat! uh? Don't worry bout me, I'm just getting tired.
Step
Seven
OK, before it rains, let's put
a roof on. If you haven't ordered your roofing yet you need to do so
now. You will need 4 pieces of two foot metal roofing for the front,
48" long, 4 pieces 42" long for the back, and two 10 foot long trim
pieces for the edges. And 200 screws, your choice of color. Also
you are going to need a 25 foot roll of 1/2 by 1/2 galvanized wire screen for
your Aviary front, vents, and roof vent so if you haven't got that yet go ahead
and get it now also. OK, let's do it!
Take an 8 foot 2X4 and rip the
corner off at a 45 like you did before. Install this 2x4 at the front peak
of the roof, like this.
Now take another 2X4 and
install it 4" down from the one you just installed, this will leave your
4" gape for the roof vent. Like this.
Now, while you have a nice big
opening cover your just created vent with the 1/2 by 1/2 screen. Cut 4
pieces 6" wide off the end of your roll, so you have 4 pieces 6X24
inches. Staple these pieces on top of the 2X4s to cover your vent.
Now take a 8 foot 1X4 and install it along the back wall at the roof
line. Screw the OSB sides into the 1X4 like you did with the 2X4s but
also screw the back wall of the loft to the 1X4 using 2" sheet rock screws
from outside going through your outside 1X4 trim board, through the OSB, into
the 1X4 being installed, like this.
Now measure the distance
between the 1X4 you just installed and the 2X4, divide this in half, and mark
each end of the loft. Install another 2X4 here.
OK, lets put some roofing
on. I am not going to go into how to install metal roofing. If you
haven't done this before ask at the lumber store where you bought it.
Take your 4 pieces 42" long, start at one end, and install them fron the
top of the vent 2X4, like this.
continued: http://americanracingpigeonunion.blogspot.com/2015/09/starter-loft-3-continued.html